These samples were therefore processed under highly standardised conditions but a variation in carryover (if the number of films was altered) would also vary dilution, so this technique might not be applicable to pictorial processing. My old friend Roger King of King Concepts, former manufacturers of the Image Maker and Enterprise processors in Minneapolis USA, found that Eastman Kodak, Rochester, were using an Enterprise processor for testing ageing samples of negative film from the parent roll in the laboratory with two temperature-controlled pre-rinses, each of 1m30s, before the developer. Warm-up step is done by warming the outside of the tube with hot air or in a tempered water bath.' Do not immerse the film in a warm water pre-soak. Determine the best time by calibrating the tube. It goes on to recommend 'Tube is loaded with film and ready for processing. The Eastman Kodak Z-131 manual, 'Using Kodak Alaris Flexicolor Chemicals, page 3-6, describes 'Optional Warm-Up tempered water bath or hot air'. Because the Jobo solution volume is so low and aeriates the developer, Kodak recommends 1 shot and toss. Kodak is quite stern in their instructions not to pre-rinse to warm the tank. If it works for me it should work for anyone else. Purists will wince when I tell you this is from hooks on the top of door frame of a room adjacent to my darkroom, but I never ever have had a problem with dust or drying marks. The films are then removed from the spiral and hung up in an area where there will be a small circulation of moving air until dry. Then, as in my previous post immediately before this one, This is followed by 2 minutes immersion in a stabilizing bath with no agitation. The bleach and fix are always extended by 1 minute 'just in case' The wash/rinse stages are by 6 x 30 second stages. Only with 120 film do I give a further 5 mins dry rotation at 101F(38.5c) before filling the tank with the developer. That way it ensures the pre heat is even and consistent. I pre-heat by loading the film into the tank and immersing it fully into the waterbath of my JOBO when the water is still cold and leaving it there until the waterbath is up to operating temperature. I find this improves saturation slightly, but also may be that I am compensation for a slightly inaccurate thermometer. The developer is set to heat to 101F or 38.5c. I NEVER pre-rinse on the basis that once water is introduced into the tank, you will never get rid of it all, so what is left may dilute the developer.
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I can count the number of failures on half of one hand with a finger left over. I have always used the same quantities, 160cc for 25mm and 250 for 120 (Or 2 x 35mm). The chemistry I use has varied over the years, starting out with Agfa, then Tetenal, Fuji, Digibase and now back to Tetenal.
![kodak c 41 process kodak c 41 process](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41Kt0gLDCXL._SY300_QL70_.jpg)
Best Regards MikeĮver since I have been developing C41 my method has not changed. I rinse between bleach and fixer just to prevent carry over.
![kodak c 41 process kodak c 41 process](https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/FD8AAOSw6Ftec~Bu/s-l300.jpg)
The RA system requires 1 minute bleach and I fix for a couple minutes. Because you wash the film after fixing no stabilizer is needed, just a final rinse SM solution, I mix with purified water and use for many rolls. I replenish the Bleach seems wasteful not to. Same recommendation goes for bleach and fixer. I use as recommended by Kodak 3'15" development in my Jobo. I process C-41 using Kodak Flexicolor ra chemistry originally intended for use in Rapid Access minilabs, 7 min total process time.